Entry 9- reflection of progress

Spent a good hour in the dye room yesterday testing out some fabric colours for the top coat. It was quite successful as I feel that I have come out with at least three strong options for the designer to choose from. Besides that I'm feeling like the toile is going well, with the exception of the top coat which I'll have to discuss with the designer. I have a good amount of samples, really I should have all the samples I need, but again we'll see how the designer feels about what I've gathered. On top of dye samples I've also done samples of pintucks for the undershirt.

Entry 8.5- Skills with Eileen

This term we're making Victorian sample bodices with Eileen. It's been suggested that we use calico to back our fabric. We can either make a half bodice or a full one, though full is encouraged. I'm going to try and make a full one that fits me as I'm quite a fan of Victorian shapes. 

This is what we are basing our bodice off of. 

Notes from our first session: 

-leave room at cf for button turn back

-Pattern has NO seam allowance 

-cut bottom base out first (ie backing fabric)

- mark balance and waist lines

-seam allowance 1" all around 2" at bottom 

- can have facing along the cf, be sure to make one out if backing fabric and one out of the top fabric 

One way to add seam allowance when tracing a pattern is to tape two pencils together which gives you approx. 1/2 sa. But you could always put something between them to pad out and have a larger sa. As pictures below :)

To do by next session,

-cut out lining and top fabric

-carbon mark backing fabric 

-mount backing to top fabrics 

Entry 8- Working on my toile

Began working on my toile this week here's how it's going

After drafting up the pantaloons I'm now on to cutting them out of calico 

 Here I've cut the more traditional pattern for the waist coat out, unfortunately it isn't quite the same as the design so I've had to make modifications on the stand.

 I've had to shorten the waist coat as well as generally fit it to my model

 I've also had to extend the turn over collar as the one in the design is quite exaggerated.

 Since so many alterations where made I've gone ahead and done up another toile from the modified one. and I'm quite happy with it

 I'll need to go back and redo the pantaloons front as I have put in a front flap for practice. That will just get in the way of a fitting so I'll put it away as a sample and make up a new front. Really glad that I did it though, I might do a couple more just for practice.

Entry 7- Looking for boots

Looking for boots for my project here are some websites with the right boots....though not necessarily the right prices

Price: $349.00
CA $361.27
Retail: $349.00
CA $361.27
http://www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com/servlet/Categories?category=18th+Century%3Amen's

Priced From:
$264.69

http://www.ushist.com/19th-century_mens_boots_shoes_f.shtml

18th Century Boots         $225

http://www.dirtybillyshats.com/footwear.htm.html

http://www.equestrianclearance.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/c/Mens/Mens-Riding-Wear/Mens-Long-Riding-Boots/

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Men-s-all-leather-men-s-boots-zipper-boots-men-shoes-pointed-shoes-Tall-boots-boots/1301125523.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Leather-wool-winter-tall-boots-full-leather-100-wool-men-s-boots-gaotong-thermal-cotton-riding/1371886642.html

http://www.johnlewis.com/timberland-earthkeepers-savin-hill-tall-knee-high-boots/p525142?s_afcid=af_79682&awc=1203_1381874643_0e870a59a34b5931a83438eea3d52092

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Harry-Hall-Mens-Start-Riding/dp/B006O6DON4/ref=sr_1_3?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1381873444&sr=1-3&keywords=riding+boots+mens

I may just need to go up to camden town and have a look...sigh I think this is going to be a doozy

Entry 6- Getting our designs!!

Today we got our designs!!! I'm soooo excited! We where given designs from for three different shows to pick from, all operas based in the 18th c. Enlightenment. I was really excited to get my first choice which was Belmonte from Beethoven's Seleglio designed my David Collis especially for our class. Belmonte is the hero out to rescue his beloved Constanze from a Turkish Harem (full synopsis http://www.metoperafamily.org/metopera/history/stories/synopsis.aspx?customid=71)  I'm really excited about it and nervous for the same reasons, it's a really great challenge for me and a chance for me to improve upon my weak points i.e. mens wear, tailoring etc. I also really like the simple lines, and I think that if done well it could be a really sharp costume to have in my portfolio

My model is pictured below. He's quite tall (6' 4") so I feel that he'll really have that heroic feel about him when dress up. He is also able and willing to grow out his hair and have the mutton chop sides burns shown in the design...what a trooper :)

Entry 5- Dissertation meeting

Just had a general dissertation meeting, nothing to intense, just introducing ourselves and what we're writing about. Really glad that I did the bulk of my research over the summer.
Some ideas for my dissertation

• The beginnings of Hollywood's influence and/or part in fashion
• Essay Structure: intro
• Hollywood's change up
• the battle between HW and fashion
• the relationship that came out of it 
• conclusion
• Hollywood and fashion: a relationship ever evolving
• intro
• the beginning of the relationship
• the big change that happened between them
• how it is now
• conclusion
• The big bang: Hollywood and fashion collide 
• intro
• the beginnings of HW's journey into being fashionable
• examples of star(s) that helped to make HW fashionable
• conclusion

remember to keep the subject refined.

next meeting have a 10-15min presentation prepared it should include

• an overview of what you've found
• what you are focusing on
• a map of your journey (?)
• what you're "stuck" on
• get a couple of images and quotes involved

Entry 4- Candide

I came into the theatre without any knowledge of the production, with the exception that I knew there was clothing from the 18th c. I therefore assumed that the play would be set in that period as well. At first I quite enjoyed the play, I thought the costumes we're lovely and I enjoyed that all of the actors had a clothing of the same fabric keeping it tied together, simple, yet interesting. But if felt like when I was just getting into the play within a play and the ideas they where introducing they switched into what I feel was the weakest scene.(expand) The whole idea of mixing the past and future seemed like an idea that has been used  all to frequently in more resent theatre, especially the points that where brought forward in the "black" scene are all points that have become to be a bit exhausted. 

I did enjoy the costume change(s) for Candide how in the beginning his suit was vibrant and by the time the play was concluding is was a bit worn and dusty, as though it had been slightly worn and left to collect dust in an old cub board.

Entry 3- The Enlightenment with Elizabeth

-Our thinking today is very influenced by the movements of this time.
-With scientific knowledge and the notion of reason, questioning things that had previously been thought of as fact.
-Calenders, clocks all more precise
-The common person is now thought of more and people questioned the previous authority
-Secular rational society
-Huge expansion of wealth

Key Themes of the Enlightenment

• Scientific progress
• New ideas inspire new values and new story telling 
• documentation and collecting 
• leisure and travel 

SCIENTIFIC PROGRESS

-Wright of Derby- a philosopher 

Issac Newton- Mathematical principles of natural philosophy 

    Put his ideas forward in such a way, with scientific truth, so as nothing could be disputed...or at least it was harder

Dighton 1784 life and death 

The Lunar society: a group interested in scientific development, engineering, and transportation etc.

Mass production and consumer society 

stubbs 1780 the wedgewood family  

-The cannal system is thought up and moves England and trading forward.

NEW HORIZONS

Zoffany (1763) Mrs. Oswald

-The new wealth, who made money from the new world(s), and where the leaders of the fashion elite
(Side note: it's crazy to think that so many people where moving forward with their thinking and wanting to see the world and learn as much as they can philosophically and scientifically. Yet they where able to pay for all of this by enslaving people, stealing land and generally oppressing others)

-New imports

• China
• Tea
• Coffee etc.

- East India Company -Warren Hastings
-The Orient -Turkey
Vanmour (1724) Lady Mary Wertley Montagu

has written diaries about the cultural differences. Lack of stays Turkish bathes etc.
-Other world tastes where immensely popular
-Europeans where also fascinated with other cultures religion
-Seeing other cultures and meeting other types of people made Europeans question, "What is civilized?"
-Free Masons also formed in this era

VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY
-Captain Cook, discovers Australia, New Zealand, and South Pacific
Why did they feel they needed to rename everything? New this new that....really? really?
-Animals, plants, and many other unknowns where discovered and brought back
-Joseph Bank-Plant collector

HOARE (1733) Ayuba Suleiman Diallo, was a slave taken to America. His "owner" recognized he was very knowledgeable and brought him to England to show his intelligence. He was eventually freed and reunited with his family.

NEW IDEAS

Thomas Hobbes: writer Philosopher

• Originated social contract theory 
• Imagined life without government 
• what he called "The state of Nature"
• Interested in the responsibility of government 

John Lock: interested in thinking about the self and the individual

Jean Jacques Rousseau
     "Man is born free, and everywhere he is in chains"

• The Social Contract 
• interested in ideas of natural rights 
• quest for happiness, where does it exist?
• Emile- Holistic education interested in child raising 

STORIES 

-Robinson Crusoe 

-Gullivers Travels 

• The late 17th c. is when we see fairy tales emerge
• ballad operas now come about as well and look as different classes in society
• The novel begins to become popular

Pamela by Richardson :Class becomes important, rights that masters have upon their servants. Why certain people are considered "better" than others

Hogarth (1751) Beer Street and Gin Lane 

Satire becomes a large part of British culture 

Entry 2- First dissertation meeting

Had my first dissertation meeting today, really glad that I've been doing research during the summer. I'm writing my dissertation on Hollywood's influence on film. The dissertations have to be 5000 words (give or take 10%) and we have to have a "research portfolio"
Research portfolio: Showing research and studio work. Describe analyse.
formative assessment 14th Nov
Sumative  assessment dissertation due 10th Jan
Research portfolio due 10th Feb
Self evaluation due 10th Feb
Write as much as you can for your draft!!!!

Meryl Streep in "Out of Africa" and the following spring Ralph Lauren hops on to the Safari trend train.

Entry 1- First day of Uni

Back at Uni for my 3rd and final year, really excited to be back and nearly done! Our first day back they let us know what we where going to be up to for our first project. We where told the theme was going to be "The Enlightenment" and we aren't getting our designs until Thursday! We're all a bit bummed as we want to get started as soon as possible and everyone is really excited.