Boots

I found my boot!!!!! So excited! Charity shop £15!...but there're brown so now I get to learn to dye leather black.

Here's one method I found from http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1352

After reading about some problems some folks were having dyeing leather black I thought I would share an effective method  that you can make yourself and after dyeing it will not come out when wet . I have always hated dyeing anything black because it was so messy and this is simple and easy and I don't even mind occasionally dying a belt black for a friend anymore. This was told to me by an old saddlemaker who said many of the old black parade saddles were dyed in this manner. After trying it, I can believe it.
Ingredients:
                vinegar, rusty metal....really...read on

I went to Walmart and bought a half gallon of white vineger, about a buck and a half. Went home, took the cap off and I had a bag full of rusty #3 nails and put rusty nails in that half gallon jug til the liquid came to the top. Then just put the cap back on. I tried it after about 3 days but it wasn't quite ready.After a week it was pretty good and after that it just gets stronger. Just as a side note, anything rusty will work, my brother put an old chain saw blade in his. It kinda takes on the appearance of a nasty tea. What I have done is just take a large kitchen bowl, put it in the sink, and pour in the solution. Then just take the belt and stick in one end and run it through, usually a couple of times, sometimes three.
You might think, oh man, this is ugly...ugly as a yellow yard dog...Actually I had a yellow yard dog that was quite handsome. Let's go with...ugly, ugly as an empty glass of buttermilk... cause it won't be purdy.
It will be kind of dark greyish brownish...Let it dry.. Then apply oil...It will turn the prettiest shade of black...black as the ace of spades and you can't rub the black out on your fingers. You'll really think that was way too easy! 
I eventually took the nails out of my mix 'cause it kind of keeps digesting the nails, but I've had this mixed up for at least 9 months and it still seems as effective as ever. This is for veg. tan leather, like skirting so a holster maker could completely make a holster, then dip it in this solution with no problem.
The vinegar smell doesn't stay in the leather after a few days and I have had no problems applying a finish. I usually use Tan-Kote, but have applied Neat-Lac also, no problem.
Another thing I found was the leather dyed black all the way through and it did not affect the color of my thread at all, I use poly thread. I'm sure it would not affect nylon, I don't know about linen.
I recommend you mix up a batch, try it on some scrap first before a finished item. I really have had excellent success with this method. The items I have dyed black turned out really beautiful, and I don't mind dyeing anything black anymore.
Happy dyeing...not dieing..dyeing 


Unfortunately I don't have any rusty metal laying around, so I'm going to look into other methods as well.

http://thedreamstress.com/2013/09/tutorial-how-to-dye-leather-shoes-handbags/

Here's a link to the method I think I'll be doing,

the article talks about how you can dye any leather shoes any colour (PERFECT!), because you're not actually dying your leather, you're staining it.

So I've order some "stain" and will wait till I can continue and try this method. Excited to learn how to do this! More on dying my boots once the dye arrives :)

just some thoughts

One of those days that I just don't really have the motivation or the energy to do much in the studio, thinking it's partially since I'm still on the mend from being sick, and maybe a little burnt out as well. I did get some work done, the alterations on my pantaloons, and a bunch of the hand stitching done on them as well, worked on the cuffs a smidge. May be able to nearly finish them off tonight, as soon as I get back to them that is. Got fairly caught up on my reflective journal as well, so that's good. Really the only reason I'm still at Uni is I'm waiting around to go out with some friends, but even that isn't quite going as planned, not sure if I'm still into it, but it'll probably be good for me....

Second fitting ...woo hoo!

as per usual it was a stressful lead up to my fitting, but my hard work paid off! I was really happy with how my fitting went.

everything fit quite well. The Pantloons will be elasticised at the bottom so as to not be bulky within the boot. They'll also need to have extra poppers on the fall front, since it is quite a long fall front it has a tendency to gap when the model moves. I'll also need to take in the waist band by about 1/2" on either side.the white under shirt just needs to be finished off now. Last of the buttons, the cuff on the other side, and hemming the bottom of the shirt. The collar will also need to be starched I think.

 The vest fit well, I'm just still having some trouble finding the right way to do the stripes. I do need to make the collar about 1/2-1" taller. Now on to the tailoring of it and adding the back flaps to lace up.

The coat it's self is looking GREAT I'm actually really pleased with it, the sleeve was a bit of a pain to fit in, but with a little TLC it worked. The hem on the sleeve will need be about 1/2-3/4" more than originally tacked on (the original SA was 1").The coat is so heavy due to all the canvas that it pulls at the side back seams so I'll need to add some reinforcement to help with that. The pleats are looking great, I did them differently on either side so that the designer would have a choice with which one he preferred, and David like the pleats that corresponded with the tack lines I had already put in...ie less work for me! woot woot! pocket placement was good, it will be a working pocket. the collar on the top coat will needed to be raised in it's placement and taken in a wee bit, but it was leaps and bounds better than the last fitting.  I really can't get over how amazing the back of this coat looks! I also made sure to bring in a sample of the lining fabric which everyone is happy with. I also brought samples of all my buttons and button sizes so that has all been approved and I can moved forward with that.

 My goals over winter break TAILORING!!!!!!
finish waist coat to the point where I can just worry about buttons, and decoration
do all tailoring on top coat and begin in not finish putting in lining and inserting sleeves

Pantaloons progress day

 been working on my fall front for the trousers so far so good. I think it's going to have false buttons and just have poppers and skirt hooks for closers. Button hole are a bit of a pain. Trying to line as much as I can, but I don't think I'll be making them fully lined as they're quite soft and silky on the inside already and there shouldn't be any problems. 

progress post

Working on the shirt today, been measuring out buttons, and button holes, and doing some practice button holes as well.

my poor desk...it's been a long week

Aesthetically pleasing

• Ellen Terry

  Ellen Terry, the famous actress, represented the ideal aesthetic woman. She frequently flouted society with her independent lifestyle, but became a role model for the new modern woman. A leader of style in all matters, she is photographed here against a fashionable Japanese screen. Photography was a novel and exciting development in Victorian days. Most actors and actresses had studio photographs taken in everyday dress or theatrical costume for 'cartes de visite' and later 'cabinet cards'. Both were albumen prints made from glass negatives, attached to stiff card backing printed with the photographer's name. 'Cartes de visite', the size of formal visiting cards, were patented in 1854 and produced in their millions during the 1860s when it became fashionable to collect them. Their subjects included scenic views, tourist attractions and works of art as well as portraits. They were superseded in the late 1870s by the larger and sturdier 'cabinet cards' whose popularity waned in turn during the 1890s in favour of postcards and studio portraits. This photograph comes from a large collection of 'cartes de visite' and 'cabinet cards' removed from their backings and mounted in albums by Guy Tristram Little (d. 1952) who bequeathed them to the V&A. A collector of greetings cars, games and photographs, Guy Little was a partner in the legal firm Messrs Milles Jennings White & Foster and the solicitor and executor of Mrs Gabrielle Enthoven, whose theatrical collection formed the basis of the Theatre Collections at the V&A.

  

  
  

  
  
  
  Leyland married Fredrick Richard Dawson and became Frances Dawson (1834–1910) in 1855, but they separated in 1879.
  They had four children together:
  • Frederick Dawson (b. 1856)
  • Fanny (b. 1857)
  • Florence (b. 1859), married Valentine Cameron Prinsep
  • Elinor (1861–1952)

  • Note Frances Leyland posed for this work in the drawing room of Whistler’s own home at Lindsey Row, Chelsea. Whistler actually designed the dress she wore so that she would harmonise with the colour of his interior. Notice how he balanced the delicate ribbons and rosettes of her dress with the branch of blossom on one side and his butterfly signature on the other. This is an unusual painting. Frances Leyland was a wealthy and important patron of Whistler and yet the artist concentrated more on the beautiful sweep of her dress than on her face, showing her from behind. The title, with its musical allusion, enhances the suggestion that the true subject is beauty of colour and form. The little squares you can see on the floor are part of the rush matting which Whistler used in his home instead of carpets. Look how he uses them to create a decorative pattern. The painting was a companion to Whistler’s portrait of her husband,

    Birth	1836 North Shields, Northumberland
    Marriage	Frederick Richards Leyland - ‎[View Family ‎(F12706)‎‎] 23 March 1855 ‎(Age 19)‎ Liverpool, Lancashire Note: they had three daughters and one son
    Event	Frederick Richards Leyland - ‎[View Family ‎(F12706)‎‎] 1879 ‎(Age 43)‎ The couple separated
    Death	1910 ‎(Age 74)‎ Chelsea, London

  
  
  http://shrineodreams.wordpress.com/tag/frances-leyland/

Notes from a chat with Glenda

Ahhh tailoring, our love/hate relationship continues. I really want to love you, please let try and make it work!! 

Notes from Glenda:

-no canvas in the under arm 

-also note the wavy line, it is there to make the canvas less apparent.

-don't press leading edge of pleats

-can leave tacking in

-last pleat should kick in

-pleat size and number up to you :) 

-don't catch canvas at shoulder seam

-large stitch for shoulder seam 

-sleeve out for 2nd fitting

-mark lining 

LINING

when putting lining in layout top fabrics face down and put lining in, match up seams and prick stitch along seams 

put tacking rows across chest 

NOTE: putting the lining in on the jacket is going to be pretty much the same as the sample bodice that we're working on with Eileen so refer to those notes! ....oh yeah and that was the one week that I missed :P le sigh 

-for sleeves I'll be putting in a false placket and buttons 

-sleeves need to be backed 

Technical Session with Eileen

Unfortunately I miss one of the sessions with Eileen so I'll have to get notes from one of my classmates.

But here's the week after the one that I missed :)

-when putting lining in tack along shoulder

-sew shoulder seams together and over lock

-running stitch lining to SA at shoulder seam
-bring front lining over shoulder, fold and prick stitch in ditch of shoulder seam
-tack around armhole making sure to catch the lining --perhaps tac in a different colour to keep from confusion

COLLAR
to make pattern for a collar
-measure from cb to front
-measure from top to bottom
-cut out your rectangle  with those measurements
-take a triangle off your front edge the widest part of your triangle should be 1/4" off the front edge. (see picture below)

-cut slits out and spread (see picture--->)
-redraw pattern
-machine 1 cm from neck line to stabilise and keep from stretching
-put layer of tarlton, or canvas (on bias)
-stiffener will be flush to SA
-fold SA over stiffener and herring bone
-slip stitch on to the bodice
-slip stitch lining onto collar

next week sleeves....bum bum bum!

Ordinary lives briefing with Elizabeth

Ordinary lives briefing with Elizabeth and special guest Jayne Shrimpton

- This costume should be thought of as a up close 'film' costume.
-It should be for a 'real' person
- 1950's or earlier
-This character can be anyone, but it must before a 'real' person and be a functional garment
-day wear

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Biographical themes

• find an actual person
• be able to research that person
• think about archives 

Dicksee 1875 the house builders 

Richmond 1882 Mrs Luke Lonides 

Aesthetic Movement (woot woot)

Ellen Terry---->

Ann Macbeth 

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Conflict, human tragedy and disaster 

• Militant people 
• symbols to show affiliation 
• holocaust 
• womens land army 

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Working life

• less famous artists are great for everyday life 
• victorian labourers 

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NOTE: can go to the national gallery w/appointment and see the archives, also watch parades end....?

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Town and City Life

• can get information at churches 
• Marcellus LaRoon-street dryers of London
• shopping
• traveling-omnibus

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Leisure

• light summer dresses
• sports clothing 
• bicycling 
• tennis 
• motor cars etc.

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Ordinary lives at home

• family life 
• family photos

My great great grandparents, the little girl with the hat on the front of the Ford is my great grandma Loraine. I believe this is out on their chicken ranch.

<---my great grandma Loraine in the mid-late 40's (?)

 Her husband my Great Grandpa Bob Johnson and his dad, my great great grandpa Johnson

and they're daughter, my grandma Carol :)

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Lecture continued with Jayne Shrimpton

1840(s): beginning of photography, we'll find the subjects of these photo's to be more well to do
1850(s): Slightly lower class people can now afford to be photographed due to cheaper materials and lower costs
1856: crinoline introduced
crepe=morning <---more dull fabrics
sisters often dressed identically
proper corsets stopped by ~1920's but many women wore light corsets till the 50's 

Dean student forum

Went to the student and dean forum, sent out an e-mail to all my class mates to let them know what was up and here it is...

First sorry for sending this out to everyone, but I know some people aren't on FB and I'll be honest I was just to lazy to go through the contacts sort through everyone. This is the same thing that's on FB so disregard it if you've already seen it there. Again sorry, I'm lazy, blah blah blah :) 

Alrighty, so we had our first student dean forum today and here are some notes from it if anyone is interested.

Technical Support:

I mentioned that it would be great if a technician is out sick for a week or longer that we could either get more tutor time or a temp. in to give us that needed support. The Dean made sure to take a note of that and it is something that he'll be looking into thought he has made it very clear that we would have to find a way of borrowing a technician from another college as we do not have the funds to hire anyone else in.

Online Calendar:

It was mentioned by a few path ways that the online calendar is not getting up dated. The Dean's reply was that since it is a new system they are still trying to find the best ways of doing things and he agreed that there should be another way of communicating until all the bugs are worked out. My suggestion was that we have white boards for our respective studios and courses that the tutors can write any changes on. Now the reason things aren't getting updated, basically to update the calendar the tutors have to send the change to the dean, it then must get approved and the dean then sends it to an outside team who can then make the change. I think I may have forgotten a step, but the point being 1) there are way to many hoops to jump through to get something put on 2) It will take awhile for anything on the calendar to get changed 3) The tutors need to send the info out to get it taken care of (this is the part that seems to not be happening according to the dean). I will be mentioning this at our next costume rep meeting.

Old Tutors Office:

We are going to try and find a better way of utilizing the extra space that is the old tutors office, as it currently seems like wasted space. If you have any suggestions please do pass them along to Jess or me :)

Internet:

As a campus we are constantly having issues with our IT and internet stuff. Such as internet going in and out, slow internet, and long load up time with the library computers. The Dean knows about this and has been doing all he can to get things sorted, he now has direct contact with the UAL IT team and they're taking their sweet time. The IT team basically came out and had to test all the things that we said we're going on, they have confirmed everything and now things should start getting fixed, the Dean is very admit about this and is doing what he can. 

Moodle:

Moodles complications and strange organization have been noted and will be passed on to the moodle team. At this point there's just not much more we can do. But if you do have any problems that you want me to bring up please don't hesitate to e-mail me (or Jess).

Exhibition:

I couldn't believe that almost every other 3rd year course was starting to talk about exhibition space, but they are. It got me thinking have we had a chance to get started on our fundraising yet? or any sort of organization in regards to our exhibition? I feel like it's going to sneak up on us faster than we expect so it'd be awesome if that could be put into motion :) The Dean also mentioned there will be an exhibition committee this year, so more information about that when he passes it along. Also, warning you now it looks like we don't get to choose our space this year that it will instead be assigned to us. 

I think that's about us, if you have any questions, need anything clarified, or would like to bring up anything to mention at the next Dean forum, or at the Costume student rep meeting (which has yet to happen) please let me or Jess know. 

Technical Session with Eileen

Yet another Technical Session, as you can tell I have some catching up to do with my blogging :/

-Pin & tack decorations on bodice
-Fold bottom edge up and herring bone.
-tuck decoration in bottom fold

-sew sleeve together
-sew sleeve lining together
fan out seam allowance on inside top sleeve and lining, pin SA together on top and bottom
-running stitch along seam allowance *make sure that it's knotted, and DO NOT seam along the entire SA
-Turn lining under round cuff (should be shorter than fabric, if the same size no worries, you can trim it back)
-slip stitch linning cuff to top fabric cuff
-put a tacking stitch around the 'deltoid' of the sleeve

Eileen, Technical session

Sample bodice

Don't forget that we're doing period "overlocked" darts, meaning that the darts are getting sliced open and the seam allowance is going to be scalloped and then wipe stitched around the edges

The rest of the seams on the bodice can be overlocked by machine

-Cut out lining and sew back panels together, then sew front panels together DO NOT attach panels at side seams

-we'll be using millinery peter-shim (as it is firm and can be ironed into a curve) to go along the inside front edge as a facing. This will add reinforcement 

-Machine sew petershim on first, then iron into curve

FOR NEXT WEEK

-get lining ready

-machine sleeve together

-draft cuff and cut out

-bring decorations

-note the sleeve will need darts in at the elbow

-clip at any pulling points

-line cuff with stiffener 

Technical session with Eileen

-Cut and tack sleeves
-Tack outside the seam lines and make sure to make tacking lines cross at corners.
-Tack all pieces
-Tack all darts in
-Machine bodice pieces together (Note: waist tack line doesn't match up at side seam)
-cut darts open nearly to the top, then insert a large needle into the last point of the dart.
-Iron the dart out, using the needle at the tip to help to flatten it.
-Clip into darts evenly on the edges
-scallop edges
-whip stitch over scallops

think about decoration for next time